NYFW SS 2012: Ruffian & Prabal Gurung’s Braids & Orchid Lips

Posted by September 10, 2011 1:15 pm
Lead artist James Kaliardos for MAC noted that the makeup was inspired by the graphic quality from jockey outfits. He translated that inspiration into a graphic line on the eye with thick lashes and a [...] 
Lead artist James Kaliardos for MAC noted that the makeup was inspired by the graphic quality from jockey outfits. He translated that inspiration into a graphic line on the eye with thick lashes and a touch of peach blush on the cheeks.  
For the hair, led by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, they wanted it to resemble a horses' tail.  
Hair was pulled back into a thick braid after prepping it with Thickening Hair Spray.  
The liner was drawn on with MAC Penultimate, which gave the ability for a very thin, angled line.  
The nails were also quite a site, inspired by the jockey graphics. The Ruffian designers chose seven patterns to have printed on nails and decided to have two different patterns on the hands.  
Before braiding, the stylists backcombed the hair and flatironed it to seal in the backcombing.  
At Prabal Gurung, the hair (led by Didier Malige for Fekkai) was slicked back to create a sporty, 90's inspired toughness.  
Malige applied COIFF styling gel to the hair and combed back, leaving that center part in place. He let the rest of the hair fall free to still have a mix of femininity.  
Charlotte Tilbury led the MAC team for makeup and noted that they wanted to create an "alluring, sensual, intoxicating" girl.  
She used Strobe Cream mixed with a moisturizer on top of the cheekbones to catch light, and then a silvery-gray shadow on the lids.  
For the lips, which Tilbury described as a "flower coming out of the mouth" effect, she used a tiny bit of black in the center, into a dark purple, then magenta, and then finally a fuchsia.  
The lips were also slightly overdrawn to accentuate them.  
Karlie Kloss showing her makeup for approval.  
Model Magdalena Frackowiak gets her bold lip applied.  
The final look! Minus the tissues for makeup application of course.  
The nails, done by Jin Soon for Sally Hansen, featured Loves Me Not (from the SS 2012 Prabal Gurung collection) but done in a soft, reverse French manicure.  

Since NYFW doesn’t care about your weekend, today started at the crack of dawn with some of the best shows of the week. Ruffian showcased bold Jockey-inspired makeup with a thin cat eye and long, lush lashes and Prabal Gurung went for a strong “Orchid Flower” lip. Both shows had nails that we instantly lusted after, and the skin was left fresh and dewy.

Click through the slideshow for tips on how they got the look, and a peak behind the scenes!

All photos shot with my PEN E-PM1 camera loaned to us for fashion week by Olympus.

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